Rock Climbing Route Number 1 Hutton Roof South Cumbrian Limestone Ordnance Survey Landranger Sheet 97

The climbs at Hutton Roof are small but interesting, as for grades they are at the lower end of the scale but with some difficulties creeping in, with polished rock on the more popular routes. There is however lots of scope for bouldering, the crags are quiet even on hot and sunny days, so working on problems uninterrupted is no problem. Hutton Roof is also a very scenic, on a clear day you can see as far as Lancaster, and there is plenty of wildlife about and of course the limestone pavement at the top of the crag.

The best way to reach the crags at Hutton Roof is to reach the village of Hutton Roof from junction 36 on the M6, head down the A65 towards Kirby Longsdale about 1 km outside the village of Lupton you will see a signpost to Hutton Roof pointing right, head down this very narrow road into the village and park in the lay by next to the telephone box. A little way back down the road you have just arrived on there is a small footpath between two house's, opposite the signpost to Kirby Longsdale. You need to follow this footpath which is part of the Limestone Link up to the gate and then as it turns right towards a small limestone drumlin. This grassy track will lead you up the hill side first to a false summit which you could be forgiven for thinking is the main crag, it is not keep on walking and soon you will reach the top.

Most of the routes at Hutton Roof are documented to be the work of Stewart Wilson, Maggie Wilson, Karl Lunt and Matt Ellis. For the purpose of this guide the routes listed here were climbed by Andy Walsh and Paul Jeffers on April the 30th 1999 with reference to Stewart Wilson's guide North of England Rock Climbs, Published in 1992 by Cordee. This photo is of the main climbs on South America Wall, so called because the centre of the wall looks like South America.

(Red) Straight Crack (Difficult) This is the first real climb on the wall and barely warrants a rope, it starts in the obvious crack on the left of South America Wall. Climb out of the break and up the crack on very good holds, the top section is by far the easiest section of this climb. The decent route is a couple of meters to the left. (White) Unnamed (Difficult) I have not found a record of the name of this climb but no doubt some one has climbed it and not even realised they were the first. It starts a little to the right of Straight Crack, just below the two parallel cracks, climb the longer one to reach good holds above. Do not use any foot holds on Straight Crack. (Blue) West Coast (Difficult) The name is because you are climbing up what looks like the west coast of South America. The climb starts at the bottom tip of South America and works its way up the left hand crack, finishing on the easy ledges above. (Yellow) Sendero Luminoso (Hard Severe) This route also starts at the bottom tip of South America, but takes the more direct route up the middle of the face, upon reaching the thin horizontal crack a little below the middle of the climb you start to feel that you are lacking holds, but this soon gives way to some very good horizontal breaks from where the top is in easy reach. (Green) Belize (Very Severe) Belize is one of them climbs that make you want to do it again if only you had the energy left, it starts to the right of South America on the left most vertical crack. The start is very thin on good foot holds and you find your self 'going for it' a lot. The upper section is a little over hanging but has some good holds. (Turquoise) San Denista (Hard Very Severe) This route starts at the right hand crack next to Belize, you climb this crack which is very strenuous, you should not use the holds on Belize as you climb. The crack gives way to a steep corner which can be climbed with a little effort. (Pink) San Miguel (Hard Very Severe) The next thin vertical crack on the right of San Denista is the start of San Miguel, climb up this crack to the over hanging bulge and directly over the top of the bulge to finish.